Looking for what’s new from one of the best pastry chefs in Seattle? Eager to try goodies from an aspiring new baker? Craving croissants from a veteran of the city’s top kitchens? Wait for upcoming weekend mornings, when all three will be trying out pop-up pastry shops where the public will have just a few hours to check out their freshest baked goods until the next opening date.
On Saturday, March 22, newcomer (at least by comparison) Tracy Marcella, former breakfast chef at the Chelsea Station Inn B&B, will debut Marcella’s Juice And Pastry from 8 a.m. to 11 a.m. inside Satay Malaysian restaurant in Wallingford. It’s scheduled to run weekend mornings, with macarons (Marcella said she was inspired by a long-ago Bakery Nouveau trip to master them), bacon-cheddar scones, cinnamon brioche, fresh-made juices, and other treats.
A pop-up seemed like “a fun and lower risk way to try out this dream of mine,” said Marcella, who will keep her weekday job while assessing the business. She met up with the Satay owners through years of playing trivia together, where, fittingly, “I would often bring in my baked goods to share.”
After a winter break, Coyle’s Bakeshop, which drew long lines for croissants, chocolate tarts and other treasures, is returning to the Book Larder in Fremont from 9 a.m. to noon on Saturday, March 22. The bakeshop was previously held once a month — word on the street was to get there early before everything sold out — now it’ll take place inside the bookstore every Saturday. Owner Rachael Coyle is the culinary director at the bookstore and former pastry chef of Le Pichet & Cafe Presse.
Starting on Sunday, April 6, watch for Laura Pyles, named “The People’s Best New Pastry Chef” in the West at Food & Wine for her creative work at Revel and Joule. Pyles will be running Parchment, which was originally to be a brick-and-mortar bakeshop with Huxley Wallace, as a solo project from 7 a.m. to 1 p.m. at Brimmer & Heeltap in Ballard.
Pyles will run Parchment on April 6 and April 20, and then will regroup with Brimmer & Heeltap’s owners to see what makes sense for future months — she’s old friends with chef Mike Whisenhunt from her time at Bastille and then at Revel, and consulted on Brimmer & Heeltap’s dessert menu. “Ideally, we’d like to be doing it every Sunday,” she said, but they’ll see what the demand is like. They won’t sell coffee to avoid competing with Slate across the street, but they’re hoping customers wander back and forth and have “plenty of space for hanging out” and a block party feel.
“It’s going to be fun, retro kinds of desserts, a lot of whoopee pies and Bundt cakes and potato chip brownies — and I’m going to bring back the savory danishes I used to do when I worked at Joule…” Pyles said, “There will be fun versions of cookies. I really love that whole old Americana that’s coming back in a lot of bakeshops… the matronly, Grandma-style desserts that people love, and I think it’s great that they’re coming back. Things don’t have to be so fancy for people to enjoy them.”
That said, after her years at Revel and Joule, “I’ve been brined — or pickled — in all those Asian flavors, and it’s hard to give up all those bold flavors after you’ve been working with them for a while, so those will definitely show up. It’s a combination of all the crazy things I’ve done in my career, and how they do fit together somehow.”