Last May, a couple of La Mancha goats born at Mountain Lodge Farm in Eatonville were named “Providence” and “Cicero.” Not sure how the little fellows (or their mother, Cinnamon) felt about those exotic monikers–bestowed by the farm’s effervescent owner, Sherwin Ferguson — but I was tickled by the tribute.
To my list of namesakes, I can now add the “Sloppy Cicero,” a sandwich that recently appeared on the lunch menu at Jason Wilson’s restaurant Miller’s Guild in the wake of my 2.5-star review.
An item posted last week on Eater.com, describes the Sloppy Cicero as “hand-chopped trim from the restaurant’s various steaks, a spicier version of traditional Sloppy Joe sauce, and melted gruyere all served on a house-made whole wheat bun.”
General manager Jake Kosseff told Eater the restaurant meant the homage playfully. In that same spirit, I took myself to lunch at Miller’s Guild to give it a try.
The Sloppy Cicero ($15) was indeed bulging with rich, chopped meat, soft bits mixed with crispy bits held together by a full-bodied tomato sauce that was more sweet than spicy. White cheddar, not gruyere, oozed from under the toasted, sesame-seeded Kaiser bun, which remained stubbornly dry, even under such saucy assault.
I liked the Sloppy Cicero (and the fries were killer) — but guys, couldn’t you have come up with an elegant cocktail instead? It’s so much more my style.
As a restaurant critic, I have never had the honor (playful or otherwise) of having a dish named after me but others have. “Kathryn’s Grand Slam” is still on the breakfast menu at the 5 Spot, more than a dozen years after a less-than-favorable Seattle Weekly review by Kathryn Robinson (now reviewing for Seattle Met), in which she compared the Queen Anne restaurant to Denny’s.
I’m not sure the Sloppy Cicero will last that long. Get it while you can.