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All You Can Eat

Trend-setting restaurants, Northwest cookbooks, local food news and the people who make them happen.

July 25, 2014 at 10:43 AM

The Charms of Chippy’s Fish & Drink

Chilled tomato soup with smoked mussels at Chippy's.  Photo: Providence CIcero

Chilled tomato soup with smoked mussels at Chippy’s. Photo: Providence CIcero

If summer ever returns, I hope this glorious chilled tomato soup does too. During this month’s heat wave, it was a special at Chippy’s Fish & Drink, the new Ethan Stowell eatery next door to his Staple & Fancy Mercantile in Ballard. Topped with celery leaves, serrano chile and smoked mussels, and drizzled with good olive oil, the satin-textured soup reminded me of a refined gazpacho.

Fish and chips are the centerpiece of Chippy’s menu–and they are great–but Chippy’s charms go beyond fried foods. In last Sunday’s Pacific NW Magazine, my colleague, Rebekah Denn, hails the classic Louie salad at Chippy’s, made with crab or Oregon bay shrimp. My review, in today’s Weekend Plus section, praises the elegant clam chowder; the Dungeness crab and avocado dip (think crab guacamole) that comes with house-made potato chips; and a serrano-stoked shrimp ceviche. Read the full review here.

Comments | Topics: Chippy's Fish & Drink, Ethan Stowell Restaurants, Providence Cicero

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