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All You Can Eat

Trend-setting restaurants, Northwest cookbooks, local food news and the people who make them happen.

Category: Cookbooks
October 15, 2014 at 10:28 AM

How to make Skillet’s famous kale Caesar and poutine at home

You can make these Skillet classics, kale salad and poutine, at home. Photo by Ellen M. Banner / The Seattle Times

You can make these Skillet classics, kale salad and poutine, at home. Photo by Ellen M. Banner / The Seattle Times

Our happy hour last week was Skillet in all of its gluttonous bacon- jam-burger-and-poutine-glory. Have you been? If not, here’s your chance to sample  Skillet’s greatest hits – bacon jam burger, poutine, kale Caesar and fried chicken – in one sitting. All their classics are now offered in smaller portions during happy hour.

Or maybe you’re not the barhopping type. Well, we have some Skillet recipes to try at home – its kale Caesar, arguably Seattle’s most famous kale dish and its spin on the poutine. Enjoy.


Comments | More in Cookbooks, Cooking, happy hour, Recipes | Topics: kale, Skillet, Tan Vinh

September 3, 2014 at 10:32 AM

Book reveals everything you didn’t know about apples

Have you ever wondered: that apple a day, the apple of our eye, the one that doesn’t fall far from the tree … just what kind of apple is it? In Rowan Jacobsen’s new book, “Apples of Uncommon Character” (Bloomsbury, $35), we see their stunning variety, with Jacobsen spotlighting more than 100 types of…


Comments | More in Cookbooks | Topics: apples, Apples of Uncommon Character, cookbooks

December 12, 2013 at 6:00 AM

Whey ahead: The history of Pacific Northwest cheese

It feels sometimes like the revolution of fine artisan cheeses in the Northwest began about a decade ago. That’s when Kurt Dammeier founded Beecher’s Handmade Cheese in Pike Place Market, bringing a high profile to not just his own products but to a cheese counter that was whey, whey full of other Northwest finds….


Comments | Topics: artisan cheese, Beecher's Cheese, Pacific Northwest Cheese: A History

November 21, 2013 at 4:12 PM

Chefs Matt Dillon and Blaine Wetzel celebrate Noma’s Rene Redzepi in Seattle

Revelers under the tent in Occidental Square. Photo: Nancy Leson

Revelers under the tent in Occidental Square. Photo: Nancy Leson

Matt Dillon/Photo by Ken Lambert

Matt Dillon/Photo by Ken Lambert

Dinner under a tent in Seattle in November? Call it foolhardy, even crazy, but also call it sold out—at $200 per person no less. Four hours after Lara Hamilton sent an email in mid-October to her Book Larder mailing list announcing the November 18th event, not a ticket was left. The draw was a chef trifecta. James Beard Award-winner Matt Dillon was cooking with Blaine Wetzel of Willow’s Inn, dubbed “one of ten restaurants in the world worth a plane ride” by the NY Times.

The guest of honor was Copenhagen chef Rene Redzepi of Noma, which held the number one spot on the list of “The World’s 50 Best Restaurants” three years running beginning in 2010. That’s the year “we went from zeros to heros,” said Redzepi in Seattle, one stop on his U.S. tour promoting his latest book, A Work in Progress. (If you missed him last night making chocolate-covered chicharones with Jimmy Kimmel and actor Idris Elba, watch it here. It’s hilarious!) Addressing the 160 people who braved Seattle’s rain and chill on Monday night an impressed Redzepi said, “This would never happen in Denmark.”

Rene Redzepi (center) signing books in Seattle/Photo: Nancy Leson

Rene Redzepi (second from left) signing books in Seattle/Photo: Nancy Leson


Comments | Topics: A Work in Progress, Bar Sajor, Blaine Wetzel

October 3, 2013 at 6:00 AM

How to make those classic Pok Pok wings at home

Photo courtesy of Austin Bush

Photo courtesy of Austin Bush

 Those Pok Pok wings are be the biggest Asian comfort food to hit restaurants since David Chang’s pork belly buns. You can check out my cover story here. Everyone  seems to do them now. But no one does  them  quite like Pok Pok. They ‘re garlicky dark meat with a crispy skin, coated in a salty-and-sweet glaze, an umami bomb that will have you gnawing again and again. And now you can make them at home. 


Comments | More in Chefs, Cookbooks, Recipes | Topics: Andy Ricker, Pok Pok wings, Tan Vinh

August 28, 2013 at 5:54 PM

Making your own pantry essentials

When it comes to condiments, there’s a lot to be said for convenience. You’ll find Heinz, Best Foods, Grey Poupon, Farman’s, Stubb’s and many more familiar labels in my fridge. But if you’ve ever made mayonnaise from scratch, you know it tastes nothing like what’s in the jar. And if you are gluten-sensitive, there is even more reason to consider homemade over store-bought.

TheKitchenPantryCookbookcover_highresThat was the impetus behind The Kitchen Pantry Cookbook, a new book from Seattle chef Erin Coopey, who struggled with digestive issues as a teen but was in her thirties before she discovered gluten was the culprit. When she started looking into what products contained gluten she was astonished to find it was in practically everything.

The book goes well beyond mayo, mustard and ketchup. It includes recipes for barbecue sauces, salad dressings, dips, spreads, pickles and stocks. “They are geared to the person who doesn’t have too much time,” says Coopey. “Many require very few ingredients.”

“What you find when you start making your own condiments, dressings and stocks is that what you get tastes so much richer,” she says. “When you try to go back to commercial products what you taste is synthetic, sugary and salty.”

Meet Coopey, get a signed copy of the book and taste some of her recipes at PCC Natural Market in West Seattle on Friday, August 30, from 5 to 7 p.m.  You’ll also find her signing books at Capers in West Seattle on Sunday, September 8, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.

And just in time to perk up the hot dogs, hamburgers or sandwiches at your Labor Day picnic, Coopey shares this recipe for Chow-Chow:


Comments | Topics: Chow-Chow, Erin Coopey, gluten sensitivity

August 21, 2013 at 6:00 AM

Five Seattle-area food books with a twist

As late summer starts turning towards fall, bookshelves overflow with new releases as abundantly as gardens with crops. Seattle food writers are well-represented with a mix that goes beyond the standard cookbook, including memoirs and fiction and even party planning. We’ll spotlight a few individual books in coming weeks and months, including Darlene Barnes’


Comments | More in Cookbooks | Topics: Ivar's, The Mushroom Hunters, Trophy Cupcakes

August 7, 2013 at 6:00 AM

Yelp Help: Writing a better restaurant review


Everyone’s a critic, thanks to online review sites like Yelp. That makes criticism worth reading even harder to find.

Enter Hanna Raskin, until recently the restaurant critic for Seattle Weekly, known for her thorough research, an eye for out-of-the-way restaurant gems, an engaging style, and unapologetic honesty. She’s doing her part to teach the secrets of well-crafted, useful, online restaurant reviews in her new e-book, “Yelp Help” (available on for $2.99, or in print form for $5.99 in selected bookstores.)

In the book, Raskin goes through the basic workings of a restaurant kitchen (for those who have wondered what the ‘expediter’ does or when the prep cooks go home,) gives a brief history of restaurant criticism, then gets into the meat of things – where most online reviews go bad and how to avoid the most common errors.

(Sample: “Rather than declare a restaurant ‘definitely overpriced,’ quote real numbers.” Sample #2: Avoid ambiguous words, even the ubiquitous ‘flavorful’: “Spoiled milk has a strong flavor. So does a 2-day-old scallop.”) She shows how professional critics research and write, and – that writing class essential – how to develop your own voice.

Seattle Yelp-ers who take her advice still won’t be competing directly with Raskin; she’s leaving town for a new job at the Charleston, S.C., Post & Courier. We talked by phone about why people hate Yelp reviews, food clichés to avoid, and where a critic eats before leaving the Northwest (the list includes lots of Asian food in the I.D., a dim sum run to Vancouver, B.C., Ma’Ono, Terra Plata, Poppy, Renee Erickson’s restaurants, and Il Corvo pasta.)

Here’s a condensed, edited version of our conversation, and, as a former critic, my favorite piece of advice from her book: “It’s hugely important for reviewers to remember that different restaurants serve different purposes. The critic’s job is not to judge whether a restaurant meets a predetermined set of criteria for greatness, but whether it succeeds in doing what it has set out to do.”:


Comments | Topics: e-book, Hanna Raskin, Rebekah Denn

July 24, 2013 at 3:02 PM

Drinking up Mark Sexauer’s “Aphrodisiacs with a Twist”

Bartender Mark Sexauer, author of "Aphrodisiacs with a Twist"

Bartender Mark Sexauer, author of “Aphrodisiacs with a Twist”

Mark Sexauer would be an excellent pseudonym for the author of a cocktail tome titled “Aphrodisiacs with a Twist,” but it happens to be the author’s real name. When that same man has a cocktail shaker tattooed below the first knuckle on the middle finger of his left hand, well, you know he has stories to tell.

He’s not telling that particular story in print, but after tending bar for a decade, Sexauer is revealing professional  secrets in what he calls a “fun, sexy, approachable” how-to bar manual for novices and professionals alike.  Why? “There are so many unapproachable cocktail books out there,” he says. “They are very hard to follow for someone who’s never made a drink at home before.”


Comments | Topics: Aphrodisiacs, Let's Eat, Mark Sexauer

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