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All You Can Eat

Trend-setting restaurants, Northwest cookbooks, local food news and the people who make them happen.

Category: Cooking
August 7, 2014 at 5:05 PM

Pasta with Jam Sauce

Rachelle, Sarah and Tony of Team Falkor with me, tasting pasta with jam sauce.

Rachelle, Sarah and Tony of Team Falkor with me, tasting pasta with jam sauce.

According to E!Online, the internet has been inundated this week with “thousands of people around the world forming teams of 15 and performing weird, random and fun tasks in the name of breaking some Guinness World Records…and donating tens of thousands of dollars to the charity Random Acts.” You don’t have to tell me.

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Comments | More in Cooking | Topics: GISHWHES, Pasta with jam sauce, Providence Cicero

June 17, 2014 at 3:08 PM

A manly cooking primer from Steven Raichlen

Guy food: Skillet Rib Steak from Man Made Meals by Steven Raichlen

Guy food: Skillet Rib Steak from Man Made Meals by Steven Raichlen

Who better to pen a he-man kitchen how-to than prolific grillmaster Steven Raichlen, the author of 30 cookbooks including “Planet Barbecue!” and the host of “Primal Grill” and “Barbecue University” on PBS.

Raichlen will be in Seattle on Monday, June 23, promoting “Man Made Meals: The Essential Cookbook for Guys,” at a special dinner event, demo and book signing at RN74 Restaurant downtown.  (Call 206-456-7474 or email dcalle@rn74.com to reserve your seat.)

The hefty, illustrated Workman paperback promises “culinary literacy for men.” Writing with dry humor and a straightforward style, Raichlen comes across as a wise and knowing high school coach, friendly but firm, making it clear when rules are rules (safe food-handling procedures) and when you can bend them (Crazy Salad).

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Comments | More in Cooking, Upcoming Events | Topics: Man Made Meals, RN74, Steven Raichlen

May 19, 2014 at 2:02 PM

Nora Ephron’s favorite Tom Douglas recipe

ephronpic28

The late Nora Ephron.

Monday is the late Nora Ephron’s birthday. Most locals know her from “Sleepless in Seattle,”  but true Ephron fans know she’s more than just a chick-flick director and screenwriter. Of her many talents, she was also a great cook and party host.
In her honor, we’re posting her favorite party dip, which happens to be the crab recipe of Seattle’s Tom Douglas.

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Comments | More in Cooking, Recipes | Topics: Nora Ephron, Tan Vinh, Tom Douglas

April 15, 2014 at 7:39 PM

Video: Food author Ruhlman has a crack at the egg


They’re incredible, they’re edible. We already knew that. But even the most devoted fan of the humble egg can gain a new perspective on the ingredient in Michael Ruhlman’s new book, “Egg: A Culinary Exploration of the World’s Most Versatile Ingredient” ($40, Little, Brown and Co.).

To Ruhlman, the egg is “a lens through which to view the entire craft of cooking,” a continuum stretching from baking to frying to clarifying a consommé to shaking up a gin fizz.

When it comes to the kitchen, “If you understand everything there is to know about the egg, you increase your skills tenfold,” he explained on a recent pre-Easter visit to Seattle, when we asked him to cook with us.

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Comments | Topics: eggs, Michael Ruhlman, Video

December 17, 2013 at 5:34 PM

Kate Lebo casts a spell with poems and pie

Kate Lebo - The Pie SchoolEven casual bakers know there is a poetry to making pie, but Kate Lebo goes beyond that.

Lebo, a Seattle-based author, both creates pies and uses them as her muse. She teaches both baking and writing, sometimes mixing the two.

Why pie? You might as well ask, why poems? With writing as well as with a crust, she said, “you know it’s done by looking at it.” And an envelope of dough which conceals its insides, “a secret waiting to be told,” doesn’t sound so different whether she’s talking about lemon meringue or lines between hardcovers.

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Comments | Topics: A Commonplace Book of Pie, Baking, Kate Lebo

August 28, 2013 at 5:54 PM

Making your own pantry essentials

When it comes to condiments, there’s a lot to be said for convenience. You’ll find Heinz, Best Foods, Grey Poupon, Farman’s, Stubb’s and many more familiar labels in my fridge. But if you’ve ever made mayonnaise from scratch, you know it tastes nothing like what’s in the jar. And if you are gluten-sensitive, there is even more reason to consider homemade over store-bought.

TheKitchenPantryCookbookcover_highresThat was the impetus behind The Kitchen Pantry Cookbook, a new book from Seattle chef Erin Coopey, who struggled with digestive issues as a teen but was in her thirties before she discovered gluten was the culprit. When she started looking into what products contained gluten she was astonished to find it was in practically everything.

The book goes well beyond mayo, mustard and ketchup. It includes recipes for barbecue sauces, salad dressings, dips, spreads, pickles and stocks. “They are geared to the person who doesn’t have too much time,” says Coopey. “Many require very few ingredients.”

“What you find when you start making your own condiments, dressings and stocks is that what you get tastes so much richer,” she says. “When you try to go back to commercial products what you taste is synthetic, sugary and salty.”

Meet Coopey, get a signed copy of the book and taste some of her recipes at PCC Natural Market in West Seattle on Friday, August 30, from 5 to 7 p.m.  You’ll also find her signing books at Capers in West Seattle on Sunday, September 8, from 11 a.m. to 1 p.m.

And just in time to perk up the hot dogs, hamburgers or sandwiches at your Labor Day picnic, Coopey shares this recipe for Chow-Chow:

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Comments | Topics: Chow-Chow, Erin Coopey, gluten sensitivity

July 22, 2013 at 11:09 AM

Party animals roast pig in a “China” box — photos!

I was living la vida Gidget in a surfing town in Puerto Rico the first time I took part in a pig roast. There on the Rincon beach, a local dude dug a trough in the sand and cooked a pig in the covered pit. There was rum. And cerveza. And a roar from the crowd that drowned out the crashing waves when — 10 hours after its burial — el puerco was devoured on the spot.

So begins my latest Taste column, in which I tell the tale of a neighborhood pig roast. The one where, in a backyard bacchanal disguised as a birthday party, I join forces with family and friends to procure, brine, roast and eat a whole pig. Read the story here. And if you’ve ever wondered what it takes to pull-off a neighborhood pig roast, I’ve got the step-by-step visuals.

One 66-pound pig, brined overnight in an icy citrus bath. (photo/Nancy Leson)

One 66-pound pig, brined overnight in an icy citrus bath. (photo/Nancy Leson)

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Comments | Topics: La Caja Asadora, La Caja China, Nancy Leson

July 11, 2013 at 10:17 AM

Door County cherries make local pit stop after hairpin turn

I don’t have to do much to get my husband all misty-eyed. Say “Door County” and away he goes, waxing nostalgic about boyhood summers spent on Baileys Harbor in Door County, Wisconsin. There, far from the urban center that was his Chicago home, he fished Lake Michigan with his favorite aunts, picked the county’s famous sour Montmorency cherries and slept, sunburned and freckle-faced, on a cot in a screened-in porch.

Which is why, 16 years ago, he insisted we plant a pair of dwarf cherry trees in our backyard: edible nostalgia.

As I explained to my radio partner Dick Stein this week on Food for Thought (listen in here), this year I bore the brunt of the picking and pitting, though Mac took to the task for the last of them and — necessity being the mother of invention — shared with me for the first time his mother’s secret for pitting cherries: use a hairpin!

Who needs a fancy cherry pitter?

Who needs a fancy cherry pitter when a hairpin will do? No hairpin? A sturdy paper clip works, too.  (Photo by Nancy Leson)

When he asked if I had a bobby pin, I was skeptical, but when I rustled up the only hairpin I had, he showed me how it’s done. “No way!” I said, pulling out my iPhone camera so he could show you:

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Comments | Topics: cherries, Death's Door, Door County

June 26, 2013 at 6:01 AM

Nora Ephron’s favorite cookie comes from Seattle

ephronpic28The great Nora Ephron passed away last year today. I like to think that she’s looking over us, with that toothy, mischievous grin of hers, doing a happy dance as she leaves peanut butter cookie crumbs.

Seattleites remember Ephron for “Sleepless in Seattle.” But Ephron remembered Seattle mostly for The Dahlia Bakery’s peanut butter sandwich cookies. As she put it in the Dahlia Bakery cookbook, “This may be the greatest cookie ever ever ever.”  In honor of Ephron, playwright, journalist and director, that beloved cookie recipe is reprinted below.

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Comments | More in Cookbooks, Cooking, Recipes | Topics: Nora Ephron, Tan Vinh, Tom Douglas

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