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Topic: Emily Moore
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September 18, 2013 at 6:00 AM
A tiny sample of some of the Northwest’s finest farm-to-table food is hidden away on 21 acres of Woodinville farmland.
The quality is only a surprise until seeing who heads the culinary program at 21 Acres, a non-profit farm and education center with a small retail farm market. The culinary director and executive chef is the multi-talented Emily Moore, one of the leading names of the rejuvenated Seattle dining scene of the 1990s.
Moore has been out of the general public’s eye for several years, leaving restaurant work to teach at culinary schools, most recently the local branch of Le Cordon Bleu College of Culinary Arts. When cooking at The Painted Table at the Alexis Hotel, though, she won then-Times critic John Hinterberger’s first four-star review in 17 years on the job. He called Moore the city’s most exciting new talent, not trendy but transcendent, creating “a unity of food, concept and human interaction.” She went on to cook or consult at a “peripatetic” handful of now-defunct restaurants like Theoz and like Vina, one of the first in the city’s proliferation of wine bars.
At 21 Acres, casual visitors can get a small sample of Moore’s take on Northwest food at the seasonal farm market, currently open Wednesday-Saturday (find hours online at 21acres.org/market.) It’s primarily a retail spot for fresh produce and other locally grown goods like wheat berries from the Methow Valley or canned tomatoes from fellow high-profile chef Brian Scheehser’s nearby farm. But there’s also a to-go only deli case (the center’s zoning prohibits anything more restaurant-like) featuring simple but stunning seasonal salads and soups, the sorts of dishes that wouldn’t feel out of place at current Seattle restaurants that win national acclaim.
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